Prada

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons treated historical dress as something to rearrange. Bows appeared across shift dresses, while skirts could present tailoring wool at the front and delicate embroidered silk behind. The contrast made a garment’s reverse as important as its first impression.

Varsity jackets, twinsets and slips shared a narrow, elongated silhouette, with accessories extending the proportions. Familiar codes of femininity became questions about memory and present-day desire. Technical fabrics in the closing cocktail dresses complicated their historical shapes: the surface suggested another era while the material pointed elsewhere. The collection rewards attention to backs, seams and changes of textile.